JEANS

Recently, my boys, 30 and 21 have had me make Jeans for them.  One has a 36" inseam and the other is 35", so not real easy to find their sizes and they have had me do custom designs on the pockets.  James picked the Celtic Knot in red.  I talked him into the red stictching rather the black on the seams. That's actually part of the jean look to have the contrasting stitching.

 

 For a flatfelt seam, the easist way is to stitch the 5/8" seam like above.  I have found that jean thread only comes in a few colors. To match the applique color isn't always easy, so I came up with a good trick.  I use two shades of color and sew using a jean needle with the double thread.  I like using one shade lighter and one darker than the real color.  It gives the thread a little life.  The double thread is as strong as reagular jean thread and you aren't limited by the available choices.  

 Next, you trim away half of the seam allowance on the side where you want the seam to lay.

Then you fold the remaining fabric over the top and fold down. 

I use black jean thread in the bobbin, so I have to topstitch face up.  It you had the same color in both, you could do your stitching from the back.  I use the black because I got a 25,000 yard spool for $2.00.  I sort of like doing it face up too, because you can see exactly how it is looking.

Use 1/8" edge (inside edge of presser foot) next to the stitched seam and then 1/4" (outside edge of foot) away from that. 

The zipper is a 4 step process.  You almost have to see it done and since I am not that good at taking pics, maybe later...

  The botton hole is a process as well. It is a keyhole shape.  My machine has an automated keyhole, but because of all the seam allowances from the pant and waistband, it doesn't do a good job in this case.  I first chalk on the shape, then straight stitch around the inside of the button hole.  Then with my darning foot, I use a 1.5 width zigzag set at 1/2 length.  Make sure you drop the feed dogs or you'll be hating life.  Then carefully stitch the button hole.  Start at the back and rotate the jeans around the key hole part. You will end up doing a 180.  Keep the left side of the zigzag stitch just barely over the edge of the straight stitching.  You start with the keyhole closest to you and stitch the right half first, make the turn and do the other side back to where you began.  As you get 1/4" from the end, you angle over the top of where you began like on store bought jeans. 

The zipper installation has even more instructions.  Maybe a part 2 at Thanksgiving when Jessica is here to help me sort the whole thing out.  I have a heck of a time just getting the pictures where I want them.

It has been a lot of fun to do.  I was especially pleased that taking the patterns off their favorite jeans worked so well.  It came out exact. No alterations needed.

Herschel has picked Venture Bros.  designs for his. 

I have started to iron on the wider parts of the designs, then do the accent stitching.  On James first pair, I did the entire knot on 2 pockets by machine applique.  Freehand no less.  It took over 4 hours, so the iron on method is much faster.  I thought about doing the fabric paint with the freezer paper stencil, but decided that being pockets and getting a lot of wear, it would be best to have fabric applique and stitching.  More permanent maybe.